|

Dash Cluster Repair
Allantesource can help save you a lot of money if your digital instrument
cluster needs to be repaired. The most common problem is dim segments.
In other cases, the rear board can fail, which causes the entire cluster
to go out. In a few instances, the displays fail, and start showing incorrect
or incomplete information. In some cases, there are problems which are
outside the cluster, such as a bad sensor, and there is nothing wrong
with the cluster at all. It is simply reporting bad information. Please
e-mail your exact symptoms to allantesource@prodigy.net, and we will help
you determine what might be wrong, and how to best go about fixing it.
If you cluster needs to be removed for repair, detailed instructions are
provided below so you can remove it and send it to us.
REMOVING THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER
Removing the instrument cluster is not a difficult or time consuming job.
The procedure varies slightly depending upon what year Allante' you have.
For all years, the two bezels (trim pieces, one surrounding the light
switch to the left of the steering column, and the other around the mirror
(1987-89 only) and windshield wiper/washer switch on the right side of
the steering column) below the instrument cluster bezel must be removed
before the instrument cluster bezel is removed. Once these trim pieces
have been removed, the remainder of the procedure is the same for all
years.To remove the 1987 through 1989 bezels, there are two screw holes
in the bottom of each of the bezels. Look up from underneath to locate
them. With a phillips screwdriver, remove all four screws, then remove
both bezels. This will expose the three screws that attach the bezel which
surrounds the instrument cluster.For 1990 through 1993 Allante's, there
are no screws holding in the lower bezels. They simply snap in. In some
instances, it may be necessary to loosen the trim plate under the steering
column, if it is applying too much pressure to the bezels, and keeps them
from popping out. Start at either side of either bezel, and pull gently.
There are two spring clips at the bottom, and two at the top. Once both
have pulled free, the bezel can be removed. A certain amount of "feel"
is required here. Do not pull so hard as to break the bezels. If it does
not come free with reasonable force, try pulling from the other end. If
the bottom appears wedged against the lower trim piece (called the knee
bolster), loosen the knee bolster as required to move it away from the
bezel and provide adequate clearance. If you start from the steering column
side to pull, you can get a finger in behind the bezel at the point. If
you start at the outer end, a small screwdriver can be inserted behind
the bezel, to enable you to get a bigger screwdriver and then a finger
in behind it. In some instances, I have found that one end will pop free,
but the other will not. In some instances, I have found it helpful to
put a screwdriver in behind the bezel, and use it as a fulcrum, as close
as possible to the stuck spring clip. By pushing back in on the free end,
the stuck end will pop free.Once the lower bezels have been removed on
all years, the 3 attaching screws for the bezel around the cluster will
be exposed. It is best to use a magnetic phillps screwdriver to remove
them. Otherwise, it is easy to drop them down into the switches. Once
the 3 bezel screws have been removed, pivot the bottom of the bezel out,
and then remove it. In some instances, the mounting tabs on the bezel
will hit the mounting tabs on the top of the switches when you attempt
to remove it. If you can't get the bezel to sneak by, you will need to
loosen the mounting screws on the switch, to provide the extra clearance.Once
the trim piece around the cluster has been removed, the cluster mounting
bolts will be exposed. There are 7 of them, 4 on the bottom, and 3 on
the top. They require a 7mm or 9/32 socket or nut driver for removal.
Be careful not to drop them. The phillips head screws you will see hold
the faceplate on the cluster. DO NOT REMOVE THEM.Once the 7 mounting screws
have been removed, the cluster will come free. In a few instances, clearance
inside the dash pad around the cluster has been pretty tight. It may be
necessary to get some type of hook in behind the cluster and pull to get
it started to come out. Lower the tilt steering wheel to full down position.
On 1987 through 1989 models, telescope the wheel out away from the cluster
as far as possible. There is one electrical connector of the back of the
cluster that must be removed. On 1987 through 1989 model, you have room
to pivot the cluster up on top of the dash in order to see the connector.
Squeeze it and pull to remove. They are tight, so this takes some force.
On 1990 through 1993 models, it will be necessary to move the cluster
out toward the steering wheel as far as possible. Then reach in behind
the cluster until you feel the electrical connector. The release tab is
on the bottom. Squeeze the tab, while pulling and rocking the connector
side to side until it comes free. Then remove the cluster. The manual
instructs you to disconnect the battery before removing the cluster. Since
it would be necessary to perform the idle learn procedure by doing this,
I simply make sure the key is off, and do not disconnect the battery.Send
the cluster with payment to Allantesource. We will turn it around as quickly
as possible, generally one day. Also, please select the speed of return
shipping. Please call or e-mail and let us know what your problem is,
so we can let you know the expected repair cost prior to shipping it to
us.
Shipping address:
Allantesource
1142a 53rd Court North
West Palm Beach, FL 33407
ph: 561-844-3938
|